Tanchoi sarees are another famous type of sarees of North India. Like the
banarasi sarees, these sarees are also produced by Varanasi weavers. These
sarees are not heavy like Banarasi sarees but can be worn for all types of
Fabric in Tanchois Saree
Employing a technique similar to that of brocade, weavers of Benaras make
sarees using colorful extra weft silk yarn for their unique patterns. This
variety is known as Tanchoi. Tanchoi weaving is based on the weaving
technique brought from China by three brothers, called Choi (tan-three,
Choi-brothers). The tanchoi weavers wove silk saris and yardage, which was
mostly used by the Parsi community initially. Today, tanchoi fabric has
remarkable fame in India and the world over.
Tanchoi saree resembles a fine miniature. In tanchoi sarees, the designs
are alway floral with interspersing of birds. Figures of flying birds,
paired cocks amidst floral sprays are worked on them. The usual ground is
bright blue, purple, green or red with areas patterned in tabby weave.
Sometimes the pallu is done more solidly with peacocks, baskets or bunches
of flowers or hunting scenes. Tanchoi silk sarees are also in dazzling
floral, geometrical and paisley designs. The weavers also use tone-on-tone
colors as well as multiple color combinations in jacquard weaving.
Tanchoi from Gujarat creates an extra weft layer to produce the effect of
embossing on silk. There are also combination of brocaded gold butis and
borders in a background of self patterned tanchoi. Some tanchoi sarees have
a rich gold border and two gold bands on the pallav. The more exclusive ones
have gold checks with lotus roundels all over which are known as butis.