
Tanchoi sarees are another famous type of sarees of North India. Like
the banarasi sarees, these sarees are also produced by Varanasi weavers.
These sarees are not heavy like Banarasi sarees but can be worn for all
types of occasion.
Fabric in Tanchois Saree
Employing a technique similar to that of brocade, weavers of Benaras
make sarees using colorful extra weft silk yarn for their unique
patterns. This variety is known as Tanchoi. Tanchoi weaving is based on
the weaving technique brought from China by three brothers, called Choi
(tan-three, Choi-brothers). The tanchoi weavers wove silk saris and
yardage, which was mostly used by the Parsi community initially. Today,
tanchoi fabric has remarkable fame in India and the world over.
Design
Tanchoi saree resembles a fine miniature. In tanchoi sarees, the
designs are alway floral with interspersing of birds. Figures of flying
birds, paired cocks amidst floral sprays are worked on them. The usual
ground is bright blue, purple, green or red with areas patterned in
tabby weave.
Sometimes the pallu is done more solidly with peacocks, baskets or
bunches of flowers or hunting scenes. Tanchoi silk sarees are also in
dazzling floral, geometrical and paisley designs. The weavers also use
tone-on-tone colors as well as multiple color combinations in jacquard
weaving.
Tanchoi from Gujarat creates an extra weft layer to produce the effect
of embossing on silk. There are also combination of brocaded gold butis
and borders in a background of self patterned tanchoi. Some tanchoi
sarees have a rich gold border and two gold bands on the pallav. The
more exclusive ones have gold checks with lotus roundels all over which
are known as butis.