
Bandhani and bandhej sarees are typical of the states of Rajasthan and
Gujarat. Bandhani sarees created by dyeing the cloth in such a manner that
the tied 'spots' produce elaborate patterns over the fabric. Bandhani sarees
have won lot of appreciation in the fashion market.
Fabric
Simple bandhani sarees are basically in cottons and are ideal for the
Indian summers. There are also silk or chiffon bandhani sarees with sequins
or zari work.
The Process
Bandhani is a handwork, which involves tying and dying of cloth. To create
the Bandhani designs, the Bandhej process involves tightly tying a string or
"dori" around certain areas of the fabric and then dipping it in
to a dye. After a short while, the fabric is taken out of the dye and the
string is removed. On opening the fabric, you will see that the areas
covered by the string have retained their original color while the rest of
the fabric has been dyed.
Bandhani work, after the processing is over, results into a variety of
symbols including, dots, squares, waves and strips. The tying of cloth with
thread and then dying it is the simplest and perhaps the oldest form of
creating patterns on a plain piece of cloth.
Colours and Design
The dominant colors in Bandhani sarees are bright like yellow, red, green
and pink. Maroon is also popular. But with changing times, as Bandhani has
become a part of fashion, various pastel colors and shades are being used.
Single colour sarees with white spots are also common. There are bandhani
sarees with contrast colours, with zori borders. The various tye and dye
designs on bandhani sarees are Bandhej, Lehriya, Batik, Mothra, Ekdali,
Shikari, Cheent.