
The patola saree is one of the finest hand-woven sarees produced today.
Patola silk sarees are the pride of Gujarat. These sarees are created by
using the resist dying technique. There are two types of Patola sarees:
- Rajkot Patola: This is only vertically resist dyed (single
ikat).
- Patan Patola: This is horizontally-resist dyed (double
ikat).
Patola sarees are known for their flaming bright colors and geometric
designs interwoven with folk motifs. Every patola saree is one of its kind
as it is created entirely with the imagination and skill of the weaver.
Fabric in Patola Saree
Patola saree is woven from silk called the patola silk. The patola silks
are still made by a handful of master weavers from Patan and Surat known for
their zari work.
The Process
A
Patola Saree takes 4 to 6 months to make, depending on how
complicated the design is. The Patan patola is done in the
Double ikat
style, which is perhaps the most complicated textile design in the whole
world. Each fabric consists of a series of warp threads and a single weft
thread, which binds the warp threads together. Each one of the warp threads
is tied and dyed according to the pattern of the saree, such that the
knotted portions of the thread do not catch the colours. The result is that
both sides of the saree look exactly alike as if it is printed on both sides
with the same design, and can be worn either way.
Design and Colour
The weaving is done on simple traditional handlooms, and the dyes used are
made from vegetable extracts and other natural colours. Flowers, animals,
birds and human figures form the the basic design. Nowadays, there are new
geometrical designs using the vegetable dye as well as chemical dyes. Patola
silk sarees with bright colours are also enriched with zardosi, kundan,
sequins.