Jamdani sarees are much sought after by fashion-conscious working women for
their elegance, comfort and light weight. Bengal is a large hub of jamdani
sarees suppliers and different kinds of jamdani sarees.
Fabric in Jamdani Saree
Jamdani is a handloom woven mainly cotton
fabric made, which was historically referred as muslin with geometric or
floral designs. Jamdani sarees are in cotton, pure silk and tussar silk.
Jamdani Saree Colours
While the original Bangladeshi sari is
almost invariably on a beige background, the Indian weavers are a little
more adventurous in their choice of color schemes. A very classy look
pervades in the traditional colours. Jamdani sarees are today woven in
various color schemes from light shades for daily wear as well as formal
occasions to bright shades for social functions.
Various types of Jamdani Sarees
There are at least four main
varieties of Jamdani sarees:
Dhakai or daccai jamdani sarees are different from
other varieties by their very fine texture similar to muslin and the
elaborate and ornate workmanship. These sarees have multicolored floral
motifs all over the body and border. There are linear patterns as well and
they have a bautifully designed elaborate pallu. The mango motif is a very
popular design in Jamdani sarees.
These sarees have Jamdani motifs on Tangail
fabric. That is the reason they are known as Tangail Jamdani. The
traditional tangail borders had a "paddo" or lotus pattern, "pradeep'
or lamp pattern. The other popular patterns are "aansh paar' which was
common to Shantipur. From the use of a single colour on the border, they
began to use 2 to three colours to give it 'meenakari' effect. Tangail has
100s count fabrics with highly styized motifs.
This variety of sarees have a powder fine
texture. Displaying elegance to its fullenst extent, the shantipur jamdani
have borders on either dyed cotton-silk or art silk or viscose yarns or gold
and silver zaris. With fine and delicate checks, stripes or a texture
created by colored threads, the saree pallus have jamdani designs
beautifully arranged along with stripes of different widths. Some tie and
dye designs are also being used for the pallu of shantipur jamdani sarees.
Having a tighter weave than the "tangail"
or "shantipur", Dhaniakhali Jamdani is more hardy. Its bold body
colours and contrasting borders, stripes and checks patterns and absurdly
low prices make them very affordable.
Some Common Designs and Motifs in Jamdani Sarees
The main feature
of jamdani sari is the geometric design. The expert artisans visualize the
design in the mind and weave the saree. The designs are given different
names. For example, the common floral designs are Panna Hajar, butidar,
tersa jamdani. There can be designs with peacocks and leaves of creepers,
popularly referred as jalar naksha. when the saree is covered with rows of
flowers, it is known as fulwar jamdani. Duria jamdani is another jamdani
design with spots all over. Belwari jamdani design has colorful golden
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